Greenhouse Cold Frame


If you want to leverage your vegetable garden a little longer , or get started a little bit earlier, you can easily set up a “cold frame” around it. A cold frame is simply a plastic sheet “house” that your garden lives inside of, which shields your plants from wind & cold (and snow if it’s sturdy enough).

What you need:

  • 1/2 inch CPVC pipes (beige plastic plumbing pipes at Lowes). Get 1 for every 2 ft (I used 9)
  • 1 Plastic sheet, the thicker the better (I used 10mil). Should be wide and long enough to drape over the whole frame and have extra.I used 10ft x 25ft
  • (Optional): another plastic sheet for reinforcing the bottom and extra shielding from wind.

Step 1: Build the frame

Grab the pipes, and bury the ends so that it forms an arc.Space them every 2 ft or so. Since they sometimes bend to the left or to the right, you can tie the top of the pipes together with a long string/rope so that they stay equally spaced. Tie the ends to a brick or a stone and place the brick 2 ft away from the end pipes so that the brick pulls on them and keeps them straight.


Step 2: Drape over with plastic sheet

No magic here.. just put the plastic sheet on top of the pipes, making sure that there is at least  4 inches extra on the sides (put bricks or rocks on top). The ends should have plenty  of extra so that the plastic can go all the way down and be secured with bricks as well.



Step 3 (Optional): Extra steps for colder climates

I’m on a Zone 6 area, in November our lows hit 25 degrees and I thought that would be the end of the growing season but to my delight some plants were still fine (celery,special kind of  chard, thyme, oregano). In fact I think the rest of the plants might’ve made it if it hadn’t been for a couple of super windy days which blew the plastic sheet right off multiple times and exposed the plants to freezing temperatures overnight. In any case, several types still survived and so I came up with some strategies to help the plants survive.

Tip 1: Place extra plastic sheet all around the lower perimeter: I’m hoping this will help in the cases where the main plastic sheet comes a little lose at the bottom (because of wind or rain or the weight of snow). The extra plastic should help keep the elements out. Don’t make it too tall since it’ll block the sunlight.

Tip 2: Round up your dry leaves or grass clipping and put them all around the lower perimeter, forming a protective wall around your plants. This should help insulate from the cold, and with some luck the decomposition will provide some heat to the microclimate inside the cold frame as well. I’m not sure if the nitrogen of the grass will be a problem just yet..


Tip 3: Bury kitchen leftover scraps (veggies, peels, NO MEAT PRODUCTS) in several spots inside. The decomposition should provide some heat to the microclimate inside the cold frame, and might keep the ground from freezing longer as well. I didn’t bury it deep at all, it just has a very thin layer of dirt on top (I’m not sure if it’ll invite a rodent problem yet, I’m experimenting with this for now). Another plus is that your soil will be fertilized for next year.

Is it worth it?

Yes, it’s totally worth it! I have a thermometer inside the cold frame, and even though the reading has hit below 32 on multiple occasions for several hours, plenty of plants are still fine. On a cloudy day, the temperature pretty much reflects the outside temperature (but remember the cold frame still protects from the wind). On a sunny day where it’s 32 degrees outside, I’ve seen the temperature get to 50. More importantly, I’ve observed in December that the ground was frozen outside the cold frame so much that I couldn’t get dirt for a pot, but the dirt inside the cold frame was not. Also, if the cold frame is up very early in the spring, the dirt will start warming up sooner so plants can be planted earlier.

So what didn’t make it during the winter (Zone 6)?
November: We’ve had a few days with lows in the mid 20s. Everything was fine until a couple of strong windy days with freezing temps which blew off the cover multiple times. The tomatoes and a special type of zucchini died miserably. Since those plants had been find until then, I suspect they would’ve held longer had the cover stayed put. The plants looked dried up so I harvested some gourds that look like a small Pumpkin at the end of November.
Oregano, thyme, celery, parsley, special type of chard (not meant for this climate) still going strong.

December: Oregano, thyme, celery, parsley, special type of chard still going strong. We’ve had high temps averaging low 40s, most lows mid 30s, some days freezing.

January, February: we’ll see 🙂



Full Kitchen Remodel

This winter we decided to take on the kitchen. We have separate kitchen and dining rooms, with the kitchen being outdated and not having enough countertop space nor storage, so it was time to say goodbye to our old looking sad cabinetry from the 50’s?60’s? and say hello to open-plan modernism.

Taking down the wall

The first thing to do is to open up the space by taking down the wall. Here’s the culprit:


There’s no magic to doing this, though I don’t like to make messes and have plaster powder flying all over the house. To minimize this, I tried to break up the plaster pieces by using a crowbar to detach the back of the plaster off the studs, which broke the plaster into big pieces, creating less dust clouds.

Once the plaster was gone,
the studs were exposed.20160101_180045.jpg





We had 3 vents going up in the wall (all the more reason for deconstructing the wall carefully).

We wound up redirecting the vents against the exterior walls instead.



You can already feel how much more spacious it is after taking down that wall!

Sagging Floor Repair

The floor was sagging between the kitchen and dining room, inspecting one exposed joist from the basement revealed a crack that went the whole length of the joist. We decided to attack this from above, since there was a lot of ductwork hanging off the basement ceiling where the compromised joists where.

We took out the floor and wound up having to sister 3 joists. We could’ve just sistered 2, but surely 5- 10 years down the road we would’ve have to do the remaining joist and that would’ve meant a lot more work and hassle.


huge crack on the joist, possibly from water damage as evidenced by the dark & white stains?


Avoid notching your joists!! It creates a weak spot, and probably the worst place for this is in the middle, which has the most flex.








Not my idea of a fun weekend…








p_20160213_144043.jpgTo sister the joist, we dropped a new one next to it, pressed them together with clamps, and screwed them together with structural screws.




Once we sistered the joist, it became apparent just how much sagging there was… a good inch!



After sistering the joists, comes the time to rebuild the floor with plywood.

The floor was still not perfect ‘enough’ though…. I’m saying ‘enough’, because it’s practically impossible to get wooden houses perfectly square, level, etc… wood warps as it dries out, the house shifts, etc. An apartment made of concrete on a high rise might have a chance, but a house with wooden floor and studs from 1940 doesn’t 🙂 So to get close enough between the old floor and the new floor, we used self-leveling cement, which you mix into a liquidy mess and just pour on the floor. Supposedly the cement finds its way into level, though I found myself helping it spread sometimes (as in feathering edges and so).

One thing you have to be very careful about though, before you pour the self-leveling cement.. make sure you fill up any crevices…because the cement will find its way through just like water will, but it’s not as cheap as water and it won’t evaporate. I filled up the perimeter carefully with foam yet time and time again, I found myself running from the basement to the kitchen, stuffing paper towels into a million places all along the floor, trying to stop the cement from pouring through the floor. The cement went through old nail holes, between the subfloor boards, etc. It was a nightmare..


Here’s a sinkhole, they’re easily identifiable


Another place where the cement started pouring downstairs







Here’s what it looked like after it was done, showcased by Lulu:

After the cement, comes the hardibacker (since we’re tiling at some point):




Floor’s done, except for the tiling. We decided to not tile under the cabinets, so that we could go ahead and start installing the new cabinets from Ikea. I want to introduce a new toy used for leveling. I’m never going back to no stupid bubble!

This is basically a laser level, which you mount somewhere and which auto levels the lines it draws. It draws a plus sign on the wall, so to make sure the top of the cabinets were leveled, you make sure the horizontal laser line is just slightly above the top of the cabinet, and you make sure that all points are the same distant to the red line. We marked on a stick how far the line was from the cabinet top, and made sure that the right/left side,  front and back were equally distant from the red line. It literally takes minutes to level all the cabinets perfectly (compared to the tedious, million-passes that ensue if you use the level with the bubble!). I’m never going back!



p_20160306_162956_1.jpgHere’s a lessons learned while doing the plumbing. When you have to get from Point A (the sink) to Point B (the pipe coming out of the floor), you tend to lose your patience while playing with all the moving parts. I came up with this backward-looking pipe, where the short end of the JBend is first and the taller end of the JBend comes after. While connecting it I knew it was a weird way of connecting the pipes, but I didn’t think at the time it would make a difference….

…but it does! Connecting it this way means that the water level (where the last bend is) is higher, and that not one, but rather 3 joints will be under water at all times, as well as the dishwasher connection. That’s a recipe for disaster.





..and so I redid the J Bends the right way.As you can see, the dishwasher hose is not underwater anymore, and only the middle connection remains underwater.

Besides, there’s a cute kitty.


Once the waste plumbing is in, it’s time to connect the water supply lines. I prefer to do them in that order since the water plumbing takes so much space. The water lines are easy, so I enlisted my kids’ help to connect them 🙂

You might be asking yourself why we set the sink on plywood.. and that’s because the granite people needed everything ‘in place’ in order to measure the granite pieces (and we wanted running water while we waited for the installation).



I covered how to tile in an earlier post..  so just a few words of wisdom. Whatever you do, don’t get wood floors for a kitchen. They get food between the strips and it’s a nightmare to get out.. or you spill a liquid and even if you immediately wipe it off the liquid probably got between the strips as well. It’s not a big deal if it happens every now and then, but in a kitchen that happens very often.

Since we like the look of wide wood planks, we went with a ceramic tile that looks like that (it’s a new trend). We disagreed on the color (he wanted dark, I wanted light), so we went with what I wanted (I am the wife after all! 🙂

..and I lost the grout-color battle, a darker colored grout which I was very unsure of. But, as you can see in the picture, lighter tiles and darker grout look awesome together. To make it a bit more interesting, I negotiated a strip of a different color tiles (our cabinet handles and appliances are nickel/stainless steel).. and the stripes look great.

The Backsplash

We decided on using those really modern looking glass and stone tiles. And oh boy…tiling the backsplash took longer than tiling the floor, even though the floor is 6 times the surface. Here’s why.. the tile sheets are not perfectly square, the edges are all jagged. If you need to put 2 sheets together, no problem.. the sheets fit together like a puzzle. But if you need to do a straight edge (like in the corners or around a window) you have to cut each little piece of tile that is too long, as well as fill in the holes for the tiles that are missing.  

To add to the fun, when you cut stone tiles, they don’t always snap on the right spot so you’ll wind up with lots of redos.

So anyway, this is the ordeal to get those edges done.. and multiply it by 12 for every sq.ft. of straight edge you need:

Measure the tile, put the tile in the tile-cutter, snap, and glue it on the wall.


And….We’ve Finished!!

After all that hard work and probably 6 months of working a few hours here and there, we’ve finished the project. I picked olive green for the walls (since it supposedly matches burgundy according to several online color apps), dark pink as the accent color for the backsplash, and we love the new look!

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Quartz Tile Front Steps


We had this gem of an entrance and decided to tackle the stairs:

The stairs are concrete faced with flagstone, go up steeply at different heights, and there’s a top landing about 6ft long. There’s an old wrought iron handrail with chipped paint, and plants to the side of the stairs.

To take out the concrete stairs, we broke off the flagstone, and rented a jackhammer to bust through the concrete.

20150621_111956 You can also break off the concrete with manual tools, but it’ll probaby take hours to do that, you’ll destroy your hands and your will to finish the job. With the trusty jackhammer, we were done in an hour for $75 😀

Because we wanted to expand our stairs into the adjacent hilly planter area, we also had to dig out a lot soil. We dug enough to have a min of 4 in. concrete depth but wound up having to backfill quite a bit since parts were 6in. deep. Note that any backfilling will need to be compacted…


We didn’t do below-freezing-point footers but we did add quite a bit of rebar just in case to avoid cracks or splits. The concrete had a min. depth of 4in, and 2 rebars going horizontally for each step as well as 3 rebars going top to bottom.

Once everything was dug up, we hammered stakes into the ground and leaned (cut) 10x6x2s on them to contain the concrete that needed to be poured. It’s very important to level the wood and make sure it is perfectly placed (equal measurements between the 10×6). stair-wood-maqueta  Our stairs also needed wood on the side to prevent the concrete from falling off the side when it got poured.


For our stairs which are roughly 9’x9′ with a rise of 3ft, we needed 160 bags of concrete (80lbs bags). To mix all this we rented a small cement mixer, which handled a whole bag at a time. This setup took us perhaps 10 hours to mix and pour.

While the concrete dried up, I prepared the tile by painting some impregnator on it to seal it. Once the concrete dried up, it was time to lay some tile. We choose an Green Indian Mica (quartzite) with a shimmery black quartzite tile for contrast. Since this was an exterior job, we got frost-proof tile, exterior thinset for stone tiles, and we decided to use an impregnator to seal the tiles.2015-08-01 15.13.18

Since we were using the black tiles to make a straight line going up each step on both sides of the front door, we needed to make sure the black tiles would line up perfectly.

To do that, we extended a string from the first tile of the top row all the way to the landing on the bottom. This string would tell us where exactly to put the first tiles on the left on each step and would guarantee the lining up of the black tiles.

We used the little spacers to do the separation between the tiles, but since these tiles are sometimes not perfectly square, sometimes you have to move a tile around to make it look squarer. Here’s a pic of the progress:      20150801_151156

For the placing of the grout I took a different approach. Usually you’re supposed to spread the grout all over the tiles and let it go into the space between the tile. This makes the tile really dirty though.. and trying to clean a tile that has a rough porous surface takes a lot of time. So I cut a small hole in the bag that the grout came in, poured the grout into the bag, and used the bag as if I was decorating a cake to squeeze the grout between the tiles. Then you push the grout down with your finger. Worked great and made the job a hell of a lot cleaner!



20150808_124925  20150808_201632

And here’s the finished product. Btw, we also added a retaining wall to complete the look 🙂

20150830_15171220150822_112241 20150830_151647

Patio Privacy Screen


This post is on how to build an easy patio privacy screen that will hopefully blend with the patio and not have the impression that we’re trying to shut the neighbors out.

You’ll need:

1 4’x8′ privacy screen (go plastic/vinyl to avoid yearly maintenance)
2   1x4s (or 4 1x4s if you’re making 2 screens). You could also use 2x4s.
Cement (1 50lbs bag will be enough for 4 posts)
Post-digger or shovel
Exterior screws (aka deck screws) (though I’m using a staple gun for a temp solution)

Build the Screen

20150512_192601 (1)You could just have 1 massive privacy screen or you can cut it in half or 3 pieces.. it’s up to you. In my case I made 2 half-screens and later I added another whole-screen.

Secure each side of the screen to the posts by using exterior or deck screws. For now I’m just using a staple gun as a temporary solution, but as soon as the staples rust I’ll have to switch to the screws.

Dig the Holes

20150512_194929 (1)

Measure where the posts will go and dig a hole at least 1.5ft deep. To do this I prefer to use a post digger since it digs a smaller hole than using a shovel (which saves on lugging cement around). 1.5ft is not below the freezing-point where I live so there’s a chance the posts might move, but in this case I think it might be overkill to dig 4ft 🙂


Set the Posts


Fill up the holes with cement up until 1 inch below the ground surface. Pour water in gradually and mix to achieve a heavy cream consistency. Make sure you mix all the way to the bottom.

Set the screen posts in the cement and level them horizontally (both sides equally tall) as well as vertically (posts not falling forwards/backwards/right/left).

Use patio chairs, other posts, whatever you have to keep the posts from moving until the cement hardens. Once the cement has hardened, fill the remainder of the hole with dirt and stain the posts to match the privacy screen and voila, you’re done.

Retaining wall block planter


You can easily stack blocks like these (find them in lowes/home depot) to make nice flower planters. It’s very easy to assemble, and requires only very basic DIY skills.

The critical First Row

First, you need to lay the first row of blocks in a way that’s “near level”. By near level I mean it doesn’t have to be perfect, but when you do put the next row of blocks on top it should not wobble too much. The rule is, the taller your wall is, the more diligent you should be in leveling your rows.

20150507_200931Depending on your terrain, you might have to dig with a straight edge shovel on some points to straighten the ground under the first row of blocks. If you’re building the planter on a hilly patch like I am, you can either bury the blocks into the hill or you can lay a partial first row and just continue with the 2nd row once your 2nd row can rest at least partially on the soil (backfill holes with dirt)

Block placement

In the best case scenario, you’d lay the blocks s.t. the 2nd row of blocks would start at the midpoint of a block below, making the blocks look like a brick pattern. That’s very easy to do if you’re doing a straight wall, but in this case the blocks have a lip on the bottom (which interlocks them with the block below) and which forces you to lay the next row of blocks slightly behind the face of the row below…and in a circular/oval setting this has the side effect that each new row of blocks will have a shorter run to go around and then all of a sudden your brick pattern is no longer there. You could circumvent this problem in 3 ways:


1) by ignoring the lip and laying the blocks on top of each other with their faces on the same vertical plane, but that may compromise stability (since a lot of the blocks will be inclined) and the cosmetics (blocks may look like they’re falling)
2) by laying the blocks with gaps between them to accommodate for the differences in lengths
3) by laying the blocks with no gaps and cutting the last block to fit.

I went with choice 2, out of sheer laziness… maybe I’ll adjust to choice 3 sometime in the future if I ever get bored 🙂

Fill’er up!

Once your rows of blocks are placed and you’ve finished adjusting and readjusting the blocks so that it looks good, you’ll have to fill it up with dirt.


To keep the blocks looking tidy and avoid dirt stains running down between the blocks, get some vinyl flashing (or any kind of plastic) and place it all along the inside of the blocks. This will keep the dirt from getting to the blocks when it rains.


If you’re doing a real retaining wall (i.e. once that has to hold the ground, as opposed to just a few plants in a planter) you’ll have to follow manufacturer/township rules such as making cement footings under the freeze level, leveling the blocks properly, getting permits, etc). In my case, my planter wall is just 2 feet tall, so I can just use my judgement.